When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.
This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.
“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.
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